S.S.
Prinzessin, Red Sea. Sun. Apr. 3 ‘10.
My
dearest Mother:
I
have so much to write that I scarcely know where to begin.
I’ve
been sending post cards all along the way just to let you know
a
little bit of the grand time we are having - and now we are
aboard
the same old boat we went home on. What a treat! It isn’t
nearly
so crowded as it was before. We tho’t we’d be put in with
others
perhaps because it was so late when we got on. but what was
our
surprise when we found we could have three cabins. We
are so
thankful. We three are the only ladies in this class. We 5
have a
table all to ourselves; and both steward and stewardess are
very nice
to us. They are the same they were before. My we are feeling
as tho
we are getting back home. and to cap the climax there are a
dozen
boys from Nairobi who went up the Nile with Roosevelt and are
returning on this boat. 2 are Kikuyu and when John greeted
them in
their own language they were so tickled they could scarcely
believe
it. One talks Masai a little and several speak English nicely;
all
speak Swahili. John says home and our visit there are
beginning to
seem like a dream already. Raymond of course is delighted with
all
those “Mu mus” (Mulungits). One of them had a saucer last
night
with sugar in it and let Raymond put his finger in. So this
morning
when J. asked R. if he wanted to go upstairs and see “Mumu” R.
at
once called for the sugar. R. is picking up words so
fast. He repeats every thing & whatever those boys say to
him he
repeats and that tickles them so. He still calls for “mo yi
yi”
and when he looks out of the port hole he keeps saying “mo’ yi
yi” over & over. He tried once or twice to say water but
he
makes such a failure he usually goes back to “yi yi”. I wish
you
could hear him say all the things he wants to eat. He says
“eat
dinna” “gute ek” (egg) “sook” (soup) “potati” “pie”
“orange” “appu” “meat” “bean” “appu pie” “cheese”
cake cookie “bed” (bread) - all these he usually strings off
&
sometimes repeats several. He has learned to like eggs more
than
anything else. He is wild when he sees one. I tell J. he (R’s
stomach) takes after his father alright. He is a great
favorite with
every one. At Cairo the hotel maid played with him so much.
Used to
take him with her up & down the halls and all the men
would stop
and talk to him. He is still having the trouble which began at
Phila
but he seems to feel pretty well in spite of it all. If it
doesn’t
stop before we get to Kijabe Dr. Newberry will help us. I
think it
may be because of his eating everything and anything. We will
put
him on a diet when we get where we can then I think he’ll be
all
right.
([Noted
in margin:] Perhaps father S. can copy the interesting part of
this &
send it to St. Paul. O yes Cora I finished the pillow top. It
is
very nice. We must pay half fare for Raymond all the way
along. He’s quite a boy you see. Hope you’ve written us ere
this or
‘twill be ages before we hear.)
But
I must begin where my last letter stopt. We are going to have
a
meeting in the girls room at 10 so no doubt I’ll be
interrupted in
the middle of things.
We
enjoyed Naples as far as possible. The filth & dirt &
ignorance are frightful. I don’t see how it can be worse any
place
in the world. We hired a carriage for $5. the second day there
&
went to Pompeii. about 6 or 8 miles from Naples. Had our
dinner
there and as we came back went to the station from which the
cars
start that go to the top of Vesuvius. We had thot of all going
up if
it wasn’t too expensive. We found it would cost us $3 a piece.
$15 for the bunch. we went back home. J. & Mr. Zemmer
would have
walked up but the road was way around on the other side so we
pretended we didn’t care a thing about it. J. had been up
before
so he told us about it again and we imagined we had been
there. That
was on Thurs. Fri. we left there by “SS Prinz Heinrich” of the
North German Lloyd line - same line as from NY. to Naples. On
this
we traveled 3rd class too. It was very nice. Only
one
other man. We had things our own way. It was quite rough but
we all
kept up fine. Miss McKinstry was in bed most of the time with
sore
throat & kind of grip. But its no wonder we had such bad
water
at the hotel at Naples. That is it seemed bad to us. I guess
they
are used to it. She felt much better but very weak on Monday
when we
landed at Alexandria. On Sun. on the boat it was Easter, you
know.
we had a big dish of nice colored eggs for breakfast and
afterwards
we had a little meeting in our room because Miss McKinstry
couldn’t
get out. Then in P.M. we had Sun. School and Mr Zemmer read
from
“Prince of the House of David” the account of Christ’s
crucifixion & resurrection. We tho’t & spoke of you
giving
the cantata. hope it went OK. The other man was a Syrian - a
convert
at a mission there but had had trouble and left. He had
traveled
much and was acquainted with many countries. He listened while
we
read and often stopt and talked over things. He lived at
Alexandria
and told us many interesting things about Egypt. We were glad
to get
off the boat again. Toward the last it was awful rough. and if
we
hadn’t gotten into port I should have been down again.
Went
thro’ customs and then to the R.R. station where we girls
staid
while the boys fixed up the freight for Suez and hunted a
hotel. After they had looked for some time they passed a man
who had an
official cap on, whom they asked abut a hotel. You see we
didn’t
care for any thing fine but rather something ordinary in
price. He
took them to a very nice yet reasonable place where we had
rooms and
got our own supper & breakfast also got a lunch to eat on
the
train the next day. Got our beds for 50 cents a piece - in 3
rooms
and our lunch wasn’t so very much. Then our fare to
Cairo
was less than U.S. fare. Dont remember just how much and the
man
that showed us the hotel was agent for a hotel in Cairo and
gave us a
card of introduction that we got $2 rates at a $2.50 hotel.
The
finest hotel we were ever in, I think. We had our meals there
in
hotel dining room too and when we went to the pyramids and the
day we
left they made up lunch for us.
At
Alexandria there wasn’t much to see. Just as we were ready for
bed
we heard a band & when we looked out we saw long lines of
boys
all the way from 6 to 15 years of age dressed in uniforms some
carrying instruments - horns - drums etc and the rest bearing
banners
or Mohamedan flags. & some torches. Where they went we
don’t
know but soon all along the street were old men with poles
which had
a frame at the top filled with sticks & papers which they
lighted
and kept kindled with pine sticks and stood as if expecting
some one. Soon soldiers on horse back came then a carriage or
two with, we
supposed, some Mohammedan dignitary in, and soldiers riding on
all
sides. That was all of that. After they were by the torches
were
put out & we went to bed.
Next
morning we studied the map trying to find a short route to
Pompey’s
pillar - - Now it’s Monday morning. The call to supper stopt
me
last evening. It is beginning to feel quite like the Red Sea
this
morning but all along it has been very cool. In Egypt we wore
our
jackets most of the time. But to continue. That morning while
hunting for the pillar we walked all A.M. and got caught in a
rain
storm and couldn’t find the gate leading to it (not the rain
storm
but the pillar). We looked at a high thing but tho’t it a
smoke
stack. Later we found post cards of it & learned our
mistake. It’s something over 90 ft. high and we walked all the
way around it
& couldn’t see it. We had a good laugh over it when we
found
our mistake. At 12 noon we left for Cairo. The trains are like
they
are in England. We enjoyed the ride very much. Saw the
pyramids
long before we got there. Took us 3 hours to get to Cairo. In
the
meantime the agent of the Bristol Hotel who had seen us at
Alexandria, had telegraphed ahead and the bus was there to
meet us
and we were hurried right away to the hotel. That was much
nicer
than if we have to wait & look around for there are always
a raft
of porters around wanting to help & trying to carry your
baggage
and then of course expect a tip. John was pestered awfully by
them. Mr Zemmer didn’t seem to mind it so much.
Well
we were finally settled at Cairo. We could scarcely believe it
and
already it seems almost a dream. Most of us were very
ambitious to
see the Pyramids but John wanted most to see the Mohamedan
mosques
and their big university of 11,000 students - largest in the
world. We should have had 2 weeks to see all we wanted to.
Miss McKinstry
having graduated from the U.B. Institute at Naperville knew
Prof. S.
L. Umbach very well & had seen the curios & heard him
speak
of Egypt so was very eager to visit there and of course we all
thot
it was a chance too good to miss. One of the stewards on the
first
boat told us there was a boat leaving Naples the 25 for
Alexandria
and that he had traveled 3rd class and that it was
very
nice. and so we found it to be. Then by figuring we found we’d
have five days to see Egypt & meet our boat at Suez. We’d
have
been foolish not to take the chance. But we did and here we
are a
little poorer in money but richer in experience and know a
little
more about ancient history.
We
got some post cards the first thing and cleaned up &
rested on
Tues. We had heard that Roosevelt & family were there at
Shepheards Hotel and were leaving by the 9 o’clock train Wed.
morning; so as I was the only one who had ever seen him the
rest were
eager to get a glimpse of him. We walked up the street on the
opposite side from the Hotel and soon saw Mrs. & the
daughter on
an upper veranda & very soon Pres. came and sat down with
them
then later Kermit. So we saw them all for about 15 minutes
when an
auto came up & away they went to the station - and away we
went
to the pyramids - about an hours ride with the street car. We
had
our dragoman or guide with us who explained everything. When
we
first got there Arabs came up with camels and donkeys for us
to ride
as the station is some distance from the pyramids.
We
found out later we could have walked it very easily only ‘twas
kinda nice to have a camel ride. Raymond was rather scared
tho’
and didn’t enjoy it much. John had him with him. We rode to
the
Sphinx first and there the guide told us a long lingo of
history. I
shall write it in my journal and you can get it from there if
you
want it. From there to an underground temple - called the
temple of
the Sphinx. Part only has been excavated.
Pillars
of huge blocks of marble, several blocks 17 ft. long 5 ft.
deep and
about 4 ft high of solid marble. Those Egyptians must have
worked
very hard. Perhaps ‘twas some of the work of Israelites. They
all
had to be bro’t from quarrys 500 miles away. Some rooms were
made
of alabaster. Lovely & white. We have pieces of all &
will
give them to you when you come to see us. At this place we
left the
camels. We had had them almost an hour - 25 cents an hour. We
walked about half a mile across sand - thro an arab cemetery
to a
cave which was quite high in the side of a hill & there in
the
sand & stones we ate our lunch. 2 long loaves of bread
sliced
ham, beef & chicken 15 boiled eggs & cheese &
fruit to
finish with. Oranges & apples and we finished it too. My
we
were hungry. Then after a little rest the men went with the
guide to
the farther pyramid & a boy - about like Mulungit carried
Raymond
& we went to the foot of the second pyramid & sat in
the
shade and waited for the men. The boy was very nice to Raymond
and
played with him amusing him fine. The boys had gathered quite
a lot
of fossils & petrified things. Then we picked up a few
nice
pieces of alabaster and granite & some of the rock the
pyramids
were made of and started for the first or great pyramid. We
were
perplexed to know what to do with Raymond. We didn’t like
leaving
him at the bottom alone and we didn’t know how he’d like the
climbing. They wanted us each to take 3 helpers. arabs who
have that
for their work. There is no rule for paying them but one is
always
expected to tip them with not less than 25 cents. Well, we
wouldn’t
do it. The boys wouldn’t take any & we girls wanted only
one
each. The sheik, who has charge of things there and to whom we
paid
50 cents a piece for going up would not allow us to go that
way
unless we signed our names and wrote that he would not be
responsible
in case of accident. Then up we went. John staid near the man
who
had Raymond. The steps varied from 2 to 5 ft high and its
pretty
steep. When we got half way we girls were ahead. There was a
large
place which they called the half way house - just a big flat
place;
back in the corner the sand had blown in & while J. rested
there
Raymond started to play in the sand and when J. wanted to go
on R.
didn’t want to so with many threats if something happened and
with
promises of pay if all went well and after the arab had said
he would
take care of him as if he was his eye John went on to the top.
and
rested a little then went right down again but as he went he
met the
arab coming with Raymond who was crying as if his heart was
broken. I suppose he (R.) talked to the arab and when he
wasn’t understood
he felt strange and started to cry. John took him and went
slowly
down with him.
When
he got down the boy who had carried him at noon was there
& took
him & amused him so nicely that when we got down we didn’t
guess he had ever cried; on the way home in the street car he
went to
sleep and sobbed in his sleep but by evening he had forgotten
about
it.
Stiff?
did you say. Well never in all my life have I ever suffered so
from
lameness. Of course coming down was less tiresome &
quicker but
it all depended on keeping ones knees stiff. We took it
slowly. Stopt every once in a while to rest & look out
over the country. It took us about one hour to go up and down
so you can see we didn’t
rush any. My! it makes my knees tremble now to think of how we
felt. We could scarcely walk when we got down. Our knees gave
way at
every step. It was so hard to walk. We imagined we’d be stiff
the
next day, and so we were a little. but the 2nd day
was
awful and not until today can I walk and be sure I’ll not
stumble. The first day on the boat I started down stairs with
Raymond & on
the top step my knees gave way & if Miss McKinstry hadn’t
caught me I’d have gone the whole way down. My knee is black
and
blue - otherwise no harm done beside thoroughly scared. My
muscles
from the knee to the hip are still quite sore to the touch. We
were
all alike. The boys not so bad. But we didn’t regret having
gone. As we went back we gave them a last look. They are
wonders and I
wish you might all see them.
The
next day - Thurs.
I
staid in all A.M. with Raymond so he might get a good nap and
rest
well. The rest went to the University and mosques. ‘Twas quite
warm & they got quite tired so all but John staid in most
of the
P.M. In the forenoon I finished the pillow cases. had worked
the
initial before but finished hemstitching them. They look very
nice
now. I’ll have to launder them yet. About 3 P.M. Mr. Zemmer,
Miss
Thom, Raymond & I went out to a park. Cost 2 ½ cents to
get in
but we enjoyed it so much. flowers, trees, fountains &
ponds of
gold fish one place. a huge rock with vines over it &
winding
paths up & flowers all around. a cave inside with ponds of
gold
fish. all lovely. We spent about 2 ½ hrs. in here & just a
little after we got back John came - too tired to see
straight. He
had gone to the palace of the khedive or king - just to see
the
place. then to a noted bridge across the Nile & when he
got there
it was open for some boats to pass thro’ and then he went back
to
the Egyptian museum. saw old mummies and statuary thousands of
years
old. He saw the mummy of Pharoah who was king when the
Children of
Israel left. He said he felt rather queer standing there &
looking at the very man we had so often read about. He didn’t
look
like the mummies in Am. look but you could see his finger
nails &
teeth & dried flesh just as tho he had simply dried up. He
stayed in that museum until they came to close it up. Just
walking &
looking then he went to the Nile bridge again and across into
a
beautiful park. then home and said he thoroughly enjoyed
himself
even if he was tired. He was stiff and lame the next day. We
never
minded it so much when walking on straight ground but up and
down
steps was killing. You may know we shall not soon forget our
pyramid
trip.
Fri.
we got a few more post cards off and then left at 11 for Suez.
It
was hot & windy. So dusty my hair is still full of
it. Nothing much to see as we went. The country mostly barren
-
occasionally an arab village or cemetery. We went to Ismailia
about
half way down the canal then changed cars - waited about 30
minutes. Got to Suez about 4:30 P.M. We again staid at the
station while the
boys found a hotel. A nice clean place where we had beds for
60
cents & bo’t our lunch. 5 small loaves & a tin of jam
like
we get in BEA, cheese, tin of herring & lemons for
lemonade. Next morning our boat came in about 11 and after
going to a place
where a doctor gave us - I don’t know just what unless ‘twas
recommendation papers. at any rate something that showed we
were well
& not carrying the plague we got on board & felt so
much at
home. Haven’t exactly the same cabin & we miss some of our
interesting companions but otherwise things are the same. We
are to
get to Aden on Thurs. early I imagine, and to Mombasa a week
from day
after tomorrow. I’m getting most as crazy as John to get
there.
These
warm days I have Raymond wearing the socks Mrs. Adams sent
him,
slippers I got in Phila. - Papa when we got the trunks into
the
custom house at Naples one of the straps was gone. No one knew
anything about it. So thro’ Egypt we put one inside & only
one
on each trunk. Guess we’ll have to tack them on when we go up
country or they’ll certainly take them off. O yes I guess I
never
told you that we heard Caruso sing in Phila. You know who I
mean -
“pensiel”. We had a good chance. My eyes were bad from the
medicine & I could do nothing anyway & Mr. Zemmer
& Miss
Thom had come & were tired so we left R. with them. My I
wish
you could have heard him too but it was just like the
phonograph
piece - even said “pensiel”. Of course John was wild about it.
Now
I’m going to ask you to pass this around. After you have read
it
send it to Monroe. Then to Albert & Lora & Cora to
Chas &
Aunt Annie and she to Geneseo & to you again. Will this be
too
much? It’s so hot I can’t write more now. I’ll write a card
from Mombasa if we have time. I can scarcely believe we’ve
been
home & are getting back. Everything is rather dreamy - it
seems
like ages since we left. We’ve seen so much. With great big
chunks of love to you all & all who read this, we are
sweatingly
yours
Jno
& family
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