Semliki
River July 17th 1910.
My
dearest Bibi.
We
are camped today on the Semliki River near the point where it
empties
into the Lake. We have had a guide with us since we left Hoima
and
he goes back tomorrow so I will send this with him. I suppose
this
will be the last letter I can send as we go on here after as
fast as
the mail can go. Next Sunday we expect to be at Mahagi. The
following Wed. we take the boat at Koba for Butiaba. From
there we
go across to the Nile at Mrooli and take the boat for Jinja
and then
on to Kisumu, reaching there Sunday Aug 7th.
Everything
has been going on fine since I wrote last time. This is a
beautiful
country. Very high hills on both sides of the lake and a large
plain
between which looks much like the country around Naivasha. We
had a
ride in native canoes across part of the South end of the lake
and of
course plenty of fish. Last night we bought six weighing about
five
pounds each for a spoonful of salt each. We buy every thing
here
with salt and beads and it is fun to watch the prices. Six
eggs cost
one spoon full of salt and a nice big chicken the same price.
Corn
we get about 25 big ears for the same price. We can also get
beans
and bananas so you see we are not suffering for want of food a
spoon
full of salt cost us about one cent at Hoima and a Rupees
worth will
get us all the food we want until we reach Mahagi. They
brought a
fish last night that we thought weighed more than 25 lbs. We
could
have bought it for a cup full of salt but we did地t know what
to do
with the fish as it would only have spoiled. Would you think
it
worth while to buy it at Kijabe. We expect a fine time this
week as
we follow near along the Lake shore all the way to Mahagi and
they
say there is an abundance of people and plenty of food. We are
down
now only a little over 2,000 feet above sea level and expected
to
find it frightfully hot, but we have been down here now three
days
and there has been a continual breeze nice and cool and we
have地t
suffered as much from heat here as we did up on the hills. I
think
the reason is because nearly the whole of Uganda is covered
with
elephant grass from 12 to 20 feet high and if the roads are
narrow it
is frightfully hot while here the grass is short and we get
the full
benefit of the breeze and it blows all day long over the lake.
This
country makes me think much of Rumuruti. The air is smoky all
day
long from fires and the wind blows steady just as it does
sometimes
at Rumuruti. We have walked now about 350 miles all on one
stretch
and have about 100 miles more to Koba and I think I will be
glad when
it is over although I have never been on a safari which I have
enjoyed as much as this one and where there has been as little
trouble. I think I can soon begin to say now how Gribble is
for a
safari man. We have not had one word between us yet and I am
sure I
can say he has been the most pleasant companion on safari I
have ever
had. You can just tell those Kijabe people if they dont want
Gribble
they will not get him. He does not expect to return with me
but will
go down to Nera unless we yet change our plans. Kijabe may not
see
Gribble for a while as he is not any too anxious to come back.
Just
between you and I, I really do think they have abused him and
altogether misjudged him. Anyhow I shall be glad to have him
if I
get a chance to open up this country. Things look so different
here
now from what I had planned. Some of this country just west of
the
lake is nearly 9000 ft high and they say very thickly
populated. We
can see immense high hills as far as we can see. Bishop Tucker
told
me they would not open up any work West of the lake so it
almost
seems we ought to have several stations from here on up. At
least I
am glad now we have some down this way as we will find out
what the
country is like. It seems to me now that our best plan will be
to
open a station at or near Mahagi and then spend a good deal of
time
in exploration going out from there. We cant do all that work
now as
our men refuse to go farther West and we have not the money to
stay
here very much longer so all we can do is to find the best
entrance
into the country and find the best road to get here both of
which I
think we practically have. Oh how I wish you and Raymond were
along. There has地t been a bit of this whole trip which you
could地t
make as well as I. I shall never consent to going again
without you
going along. This time it is a sheer waste we could have gone
to
Mahagi nicely and put up a sort of a permanent camp and then
worked
out from there. As it is I must come all the way back and
loose a
few months time. As far as traveling here is concerned it is
nonsense to think a woman could地t go along. You said you
hoped we
would地t need to be separated again. Never mind. I dont want
to
any more than you do and since I have been here no one can
make me
believe that you ought not to go along. You spoke of not
wanting to
be a hindrance to my work. You have been a hindrance this time
because you did not come along with me. So the only way you
can keep
from being a hindrance to my work is to go along. I am not
joking
Bibi. All the suffering I have done on this trip was the
frightful
homesick feeling I have had otherwise it would have been a
pleasure
trip. We are now at the point farthest away from you and you
dont
know how glad I am to begin the trip back. Three weeks will
land us
at Kijabe. Then I値l bet it wont seem to you as though we are
always going to live separated. You値l see enough of me then.
I値l be awfully jealous if you go off just a few minutes with
someone else. You will think I am the silliest duck going but
then I
have waited long enough to see you. I値l be so glad to see
Raymond
I think I will spank him every day. I expect to send a
telegram when
we reach Koba. I wonder if you will have this before that
time. Hope we will find our money waiting for us there. We
cant go any
further if we dont so you know your duty if you want me to
come back. The next letter you get will be myself. Should we
yet change pans I
will let you know by telegram if not look for us Monday Aug 9th.
Your
coming back in a hustle
John.
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